3 critical points to choose a bra that fits
15th Feb 2018
I entered the fitting room with 5 different bras - how was I going to choose which one fits the best?
Gone are the days of the bra fitting service in department stores. These days you're on your own. You and your 5 bras and a very large and unflattering mirror.
Last time I was measured was a few years ago at Victoria's Secret in the US - she said I was a 34D, which I think is roughly a 12D here in Australia so that's what I took with me in the fitting room.
But how do I know that the bras fit properly? I like a 'tight' feeling as I really don't like any jiggling or movement while I walk or move around. But is that good or bad? I am so confused!
Turns out there are three critical points to a well fitting bra:
1. Under band
2. Cup size and underwire
3. Straps
1. Underband
- The underband provides much of the support of the bra so it needs to fit well around your ribcage.
- The underband should support 90% of the breast weight.
- The underband sits horizontal, parallel to the body. Check this in the mirror - you can see if the band stays horizontal or if it slides up.
The band should be not too loose as this will make the bra crawl up your back. (and you’ll keep shortening the straps constantly to compensate, often resulting in the bra straps digging into the shoulders).
When you can easily move the bra when the band is fastened - you know the under band is most likely too large. Go down a size to check.
You don’t want the under band to be too tight either as this will dig into your ribs and restrict your breathing.
2. Cup size
Your breasts change size and shape over the years. When you put on weight or lose weight your breast size will change as well (after all, most of the breast is filled with fatty tissue).
Depending on where you are in your monthly cycle you will carry more or less fluids in your body - which will make your breasts appear larger.
When you try on a bra you need to check the following:
- Do my breasts fill the cups completely without spilling over or leaving gaps?
- Do I have two breasts, and not four?? (i.e. are your breast spilling over the cups or over the sizes?)
- Does the wire lie flat or is it sticking out?
- Does the wire sit under the breast tissue? It should not sit on the breast tissue as this can cause damage.
[Photo Credit: David Stanley/Flickr ]
Be honest with yourself - look down and check if the bra fabric covers your skin nicely. If in doubt you can put a t-shirt over the top to check what it looks like with clothes on.
If your breast tissue spills out of the cup (either on the top or on the sides) it means that the cup size is too small.
If the breasts don’t fill the bra completely and it makes the fabric wrinkle or gape it means that the cup size is too large - go down a size and check how that looks.
You will need to be able to move your arms without the breasts dropping out of the cups. The bra should be comfortable enough that you hardly feel it’s there.
Bend over and move around to see if the bra stays in the same position without digging in or crawling up.
When the underwire sticks out away from your body, it means that the cup size is too small. It should lie flat against your body.
3. Straps
When your bra doesn't fit properly you will notice that the straps either dig into your shoulders or slip off your shoulders.
If your straps dig in - or your shoulders hurt after a while, it probably means the under band is too large (remember, that's what holds the bra up!)
Just like with the under band, your straps should not leave marks on your skin. If you have red stripes on your skin from wearing a bra, it's too tight.
Once you've checked all this - the jumping jack jiggle test is the final check to see if the bra gives you enough support.
FINAL TIP: Always choose the bra size where you're on the first hook - this gives you room to move to a tighter setting when the fabric stretches. It will give you more time to enjoy wearing this bra.
PS - turns out that now that I've lost 10 kilos, my bra size has changed as well. The 12D bras where way too big and I now sit between a 10 C and a 10D depending on the bra style and brand. Goes to show that size is just a number and it's important to measure yourself and try on as many bras as you can to find the perfect fit!
PPS - Not sure if you need to replace your bra? Read this article on the three signs to look for before you decide to replace your sports bra.